Restaurants of the Year 2008

The intown westchester editorial staff

What are the elements of a great restaurant? It's a question we debate a lot-especially when we're considering what restaurants to include in our annual food issue. Is it ambiance? Value? Farm-fresh fare? Inventive offerings? For many of us-some who eat out at least four times a week, others who love cooking at home-it's a combination of all these elements and several more, namely service, décor, food, and, yes, a certain kind of vibe. Our choices are as varied as Westchester: Some serve gorgeous seafood, others Thai, and even casually sophisticated comfort-food. After exhaustive research (and a few pounds gained), we then compile our notes to give you this: our 2008 dossier-the very best of the best, for your eyes only.

MIMA Irvington

WHY WE LOVE IT Even though we review dozens of restaurants every year, there's a select few that we return to again and again. Mima doesn't just fall into that group, it also qualifies for the much smaller "birthday" list-as in, the kind of special place we want to blow out our candles. Mind you, we're not talking about the kind of party spot with $40 entrées and chichi décor; the Irvington gem instead favors entrées in the $16-to-$29 range, and the vibe is decidedly rustic, with exposed brick, pressed-tin ceilings, and mopina napkins.

WHAT TO ORDER Start with the arugula salad, which comes filled with fried artichokes, shaved Parmesan, and cherry tomatoes. Then move on to the braised short ribs with sides of baby carrots, pearl onions, and chestnut-ricotta gnocchi, or the corkscrew-shaped trecce pasta, with a farm-fresh egg you mix in yourself.

INSIDER TIP Instead of ordering a bottle of wine, or even a couple glasses, try getting several half-glasses (three ounces each). It's one of the best ways to sample Mima's extensive, outstanding wine list.

DINNER FOR TWO $80

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 63 Main St.; Irvington; 591-1300; mimarestaurant.com

THE BARN AT BEDFORD POST INN Bedford Village

WHY WE LOVE IT For its pure and simple cooking-in-a-rustic-inn ambiance. And though we ate here prior to the opening of the more formal restaurant (it's scheduled to debut later this month), we can't help but love the fact that this area now has a culinary-destination claim to fame.

WHAT TO ORDER Berkshire pork three ways, handmade pasta or egg yolk ravioli. Everything is rooted in seasonality, so expect something new every time you go. The barn serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, while the main restaurant will offer à la carte items, tasting menus, and a special chef's discovery meal.

INSIDER TIP There's a yoga studio in the barn, plus horse trails in the back and plans for a stable.

DINNER FOR TWO $150

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 954 Old Post Rd./Rte. 121; Bedford Village; 234-7800

ZEPH'S Peekskill

WHY WE LOVE IT Granted, Westchester's trendy restaurants make it easy to find an outstanding meal-but if only reasonable prices were as ubiquitous as pink martinis. Fortunately, there's Zephs' in Peekskill, a lovely dining destination where you can have a gourmet meal without breaking the bank. Chef Vicky Zeph, who owns the restaurant with her brother Mike and has trained all over the world, offers a small, rotating menu that changes seasonally but frequently includes creative spins on chicken, beef, lamb, and fish-often the vegetables and herbs in dishes like gnocchi primavera (excellent, by the way) come from the garden right outside the restaurant.

WHAT TO ORDER While the menu rotates with the seasons, you can never go wrong with the lamb, no matter how it's prepared. We tried it cooked in Moroccan spices, and the meat was juicy and flavorful. Another winner? The chicken tapenade: a roasted half-chicken stuffed with olives and capers. The accompanying semolina gnocchi-cakes of ricotta, heavy cream, and buttermilk-are an absolute must. Just don't think about the calories.

INSIDER TIP The restaurant is small, so make reservations on the weekends.

DINNER FOR TWO $85

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 638 Central Ave.; Peekskill; 736-2159

42 White Plains

WHY WE LOVE IT Your table for two atop the Ritz-Carlton offers you a birds-eye view of the county and beyond, and an eye-opening dining experience not easily replicated in other restaurants.

WHAT TO ORDER Chef Anthony Goncalves' menu is constantly evolving, but right now, you'll find a beef carpaccio, sliced so thin it's almost transparent; with spicy greens, Myer's lemon, and a dust of Parmagiano. Then move on to an entrée of fluke, paired with bacon, truffle succotash, and paddlefish-roe vinaigrette. The absolute joy of this food is that Chef Anthony Goncalves' innovative ingredients (foie gras and licorice, anyone?) work together so beautifully.

INSIDER TIP 42 loves to give its guests little surprises, so at the end of the meal, you may get a tray of complimentary mini-desserts-ask for the "Mallomars."

DINNER FOR TWO $150

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE One Renaissance Sq.; White Plains; 761-4242; 42therestaurant.com

RED HAT Irvington

WHY WE LOVE IT After a tough week at work, there's nothing better than sinking into one of the deep, burgundy leather banquettes on the second floor, de-stressing with a nice glass of pinot noir and a menu of delicious options, and simply taking in the scene. From your perch, you may see couples canoodling in a corner, a family out for a festive dinner, or a large party of friends laughing over a shared joke at their table. All this amidst a soaring ceiling and floor-to-ceiling views of the Hudson River. The food is just as cosseting-especially on a chilly fall night-with an emphasis on French bistro fare like steak frites and mussels.

WHAT TO ORDER There's a lot to like, from simple salads to comfort foods done up-like a classic rib-eye with matchstick thin frittes. Then there are the fancy dishes, like a spicy yellow-fin tuna tartare-a refreshing take on the subject, with a hint of ginger, some lime-pickled daikon, and lots of supremely fresh fish. We also love the seared Maine scallops (mostly for the braised endive!) and two must-have desserts: A lip-puckering French lemon tarte is magnifque, but so, too, is their coconut-milk brioche bread-pudding.

INSIDER TIP If you don't have a reservation try eating at the bar or its adjacent, small lounge. When it's warm, head for their spectacular rooftop bar.

DINNER FOR TWO $120

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE One Bridge St.; Irvington; 591-5888; redhatbistro.com

SOL MAR Tarrytown

WHY WE LOVE IT Sol Mar isn't the first restaurant in Westchester to marry Portuguese and Brazilian cuisine. In fact, it's not the only restaurant in Tarrytown to do so! Rather, the chefs (who left Caravela to start Sol Mar) put their own spin on traditional South American and European dishes-and almost always make them better.

WHAT TO ORDER The caldo verde (a traditional Portuguese green soup) is chunkier and heartier than anything you'll get served in Lisbon. With thick greens, potatoes, garlic, and spicy chorizo, it's perfect for a cold winter night. Likewise, the Prince Edward Isle mussels are sure to warm you up. For entrées, the bacalhau à braz is one of the best cod dishes you'll ever taste. And the penne a cachaça-shrimp, scallops, and pasta in a sweet sauce made with Brazilian liquor-almost could qualify as a dessert.

INSIDER TIP Find spots in the municipal lot a block past Sol Mar, if you turn left on Washington St.

DINNER FOR TWO $80

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 12 Main St.; Tarrytown; 333-0151

121 RESTAURANT North Salem

WHY WE LOVE IT It's simple, yet fills a void, especially in this (northern) neck of the woods. A onetime farmhouse, it now oozes the charm of a hearty tavern for wayward travelers (or busy soccer moms). In the winter, nothing beats its welcoming fireplace, warm, neutral tones, and well-balanced wine list. For the summer, there's an expansive wraparound porch.

WHAT TO ORDER Some swear by the pizza, though we were under-impressed. Instead, go for bok choy salad with toasted noodles, almonds, scallions, and soy dressing, the roasted organic chicken, or the grilled-chicken BLT with seasoned steak fries.

INSIDER TIP They don't take reservations, unless you're a party of six or more-meaning you have to time your visit right. Too early: You'll be dealing with young (often noisy) families; too late: you'll be waiting at the bar.

DINNER FOR TWO $70

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE Rte. 121; North Salem; 669-0121; 121restaurant.com itw

NESSA Port Chester

WHY WE LOVE IT Because the two-year-old—dare we say sexy?—Nessa manages to "wow," with its sultry atmosphere and delicious food. The place definitely emits a wine-bar vibe and is all about being authentic Italian.

WHAT TO ORDER The main attractions are appetizers such bruschetta, tea sandwiches, and salads, which go well with a quartino or bottle of wine. Try the prosciutto, ricotta, and fig bruschetta or the white bean with truffle and fresh tomato. For entrées, try the chicken, cooked under a brick, with spinach, potato purée, and a spicy diablo sauce, or the garlicky but out-of-this-world salmon, served with escarole, cannelli beans, and salsa verde.

INSIDER TIP Ask about private parties: There's a room in the back, and they will also rent out the entire restaurant.

DINNER FOR TWO $65

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 325 N. Main St.; Port Chester; 939-0119; nessarestaurant.com

CAFE OF LOVE Mount Kisco

WHY WE LOVE IT Because it feels like a slice of rural Europe in the middle of Mount Kisco. The space alone is enough to make you "ooh" and "ah"-from the whimsical chandeliers to the gorgeous trestle table to the mix-and-match furniture. And, yes, the food is as stellar as the ambiance: gourmet cuisine and farm-fresh fare that changes with the seasons.

WHAT TO ORDER The pomme frites with a trio of dipping sauces (spicy ketchup, fontina-Parmesan, and chipotle), the mussels provençal in a white-wine broth-great for double-dipping, or, for a taste of childhood, the Cheddar Macaroni Crock.

INSIDER TIP The trestle table is always full of olives, cheeses, pita chips, and various dips, meaning you can dine at the bar and indulge.

DINNER FOR TWO $75

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 38 E. Main St.; Mount Kisco; 242-1002; cafeofloveny.com

SAMMY'S DOWNTOWN BISTRO Bronxville

WHY WE LOVE IT For its airy Mediterranean vibe-the large mirrors and oversized paintings make you feel like you're eating in a museum café-and the fact that it doesn't try to be what it's not. It's, quite simply, a casual neighborhood eatery that can be as gourmet or as simple as you want it to be. On one end are your standard dishes, like mixed-green salads, roasted salmon, chicken parmigiana, and spaghetti pomodoro, while, at the other, more inventive entrées like pheasant-duck paté, New Zealand lamb rack, and pork tenderloin paillard.

WHAT TO ORDER Start with the Fromage Fritter (grilled shrimp, crispy Brie fritter, and a Grand Marnier drizzle), or go for the pomme salad-a twist on your standard greens, with chopped iceberg, apple Gorgonzola, honey, white raisins, and pecans. On a cold night, nothing beats the comfort of the juicy, panroasted baby chicken with wild cherry au jus, haricots verts, and mashed potatoes. Whatever you do, save room for dessert: The aromatic lemon cake is a warm Bundt cake with fresh strawberries, Tahitian vanilla gelato, whipped cream, and strawberry drizzle.

INSIDER TIP The restaurant offers late night dining: open till 10 p.m weeknights; till 11, weekends.

DINNER FOR TWO $65

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE 124 Pondfield Rd.; Bronxville; 337-3200; sammysbronxville.com